Fierce Blue Superstition

It’s sunny and gently warm when Guria and I head out together an hour later. After some iron-sweet bargaining on Guria’s part, she and a tuc-tuc driver agree on a fare approximately a third of what I would pay (even after my best haggling attempts) and we bounce and chug our way through the chaotic […]

My Indian family

After a day and a half hanging around the scrappy streets of Paharganj, it’s time to make a move. Today’s January 2nd and Alex’s niece Fiza is getting married on the 4th, so we’ve got to get to Jaipur. As ever, when travelling with my husband we go in style as opposed to sticking to […]