Fierce Blue Superstition

It’s sunny and gently warm when Guria and I head out together an hour later. After some iron-sweet bargaining on Guria’s part, she and a tuc-tuc driver agree on a fare approximately a third of what I would pay (even after my best haggling attempts) and we bounce and chug our way through the chaotic […]

Pre-Wedding chaos and making amends…

Alex has three older brothers, each of them living in homes one above the other and because of the spare room downstairs (that of the second-eldest), this is the home I’ve usually spent the most time in. The mum of this home, Akila, is by far the quietest and shyest of the three sisters-in-law; tiny […]

Going for a stroll… adrenaline-junkie-style!

I used to think I was being lazy in Jaipur, when hanging around for lifts or taking tuc-tucs everywhere I went. To be fair, a lot of the time I’ve been here in the brain-frying temperatures of 48 degrees celcius in which just thinking is hard-going, never mind taking a walk in the sun. But […]

My Indian family

After a day and a half hanging around the scrappy streets of Paharganj, it’s time to make a move. Today’s January 2nd and Alex’s niece Fiza is getting married on the 4th, so we’ve got to get to Jaipur. As ever, when travelling with my husband we go in style as opposed to sticking to […]

India you old tease… it’s good to be back!

We’re speeding through the dark sky, roughly somewhere over Russia, when Alex suddenly turns to me. “Oh darling, it’s midnight in India! Happy New Year!” He grins and lifts up his little plastic glass of red wine to clink mine. “Happy New Year to you too sweetheart! Cheers!” We continue munching on our surprisingly tasty […]

Dear Kerala…. it’s good to be back.

I’ve been in the south of India for just over a week now and this land is in stark contrast to my husband’s home-town of Jaipur, further north in the arid yet vibrant state of Rajasthan.  The vast difference really struck me on my previous trip here, nine months ago.  Alex, myself and his goldsmith […]

Yup my friend, you’re back in India!

My flight from Dublin came via Abu Dhabi, a frenzied hub of mainly transiting passengers.  I had an hour and a half between flights, plenty time.  Well that’s what I had thought before I saw the rows of bodies waiting to go through security.  The queue was about six lines long, zig-zagging back and forth as I shuffled my way along towards […]

Bloody bracelet!

It’s the still black of night and I’m heavy and dull with sleep. The fan is whirring ceaselessly above me, a constant, cooling gust in an otherwise sticky, muggy heat. My husband comes into the room after I’ve drifted off to the formless land of dreams.  His rustling for pajamas and the glare of the light bulb poke holes in my […]

The things travelling did to me…

Given that I’m only a week back from India, I’ve quite recently experienced the joys of long flights and a disturbed body-clock and the general wear and tear of this exhausting activity that I love so much.  Here’s a few of the more interesting elements of my journey home:   the things travelling did to me…  Required me to rise […]